Six Senses Laamu Resort, Maldives

Six Senses was the first resort to open in Laamu in 2011 and the atoll remains largely undeveloped, a far cry from the now bustling hubbub around Male. Trading travelling distance for remoteness used to mean a domestic flight and speedboat to the island, which deterred many travellers, but now a scheduled, air-conditioned seaplane service has turned a weakness into a strength.

Marteyne van Well has been running Laamu for more than a decade with high staff retention rates and that consistency manifests in extremely well-drilled service, as well as a noticeable spirit of community between team members that rubs off on guests. Only a few island resorts manage to achieve a genuinely connate hospitality that blends the luxurious and familial. It requires everyone to be rowing in the same direction and Six Senses Laamu has it in spades.

Some people are tiring of the ‘Robinson Crusoe’ / ‘Swiss Family Robinson’ style but not us. We relish the extensive use of natural materials and driftwood inspired themes. The over water villas are largely unchanged since opening (some pools have been added) but they are still beautifully designed and superb places to spend time, from the spacious decks all the way up to the ‘crows nest’ balcony. Some minor details are showing some age, such as electrical switches, etc. but we love all the Six Senses interior touches and the careful concealment of the modern tech. Beach villas are also largely unchanged, although some of the multi-room villas have been significantly upgraded and feature various sprawling configurations, suitable for a wide range of families and friends.

Longitude is still one of our favourite ‘main restaurants’ for both breakfast and dinners, with its extensive combination of buffet and live cooking stations, and what seems like endless variety. Sip Sip beach bar is a lovely spot for lunch with a varied menu and super pizzas. Leaf, the tree top fine dining restaurant (clearly inspired by Soneva’s ‘Fresh In The Garden’) was tip top, and the addition of a Sake bar and Teppanyaki tables to the Zen Asian restaurant offer more variety and it’s all delicious.

Chill Bar is the heart of the over water complex and a superb location both during the day or for pre or post dinner drinks, with occasional low-key entertainment, and a ‘No Rush Hour’ b-o-g-o-f between 10-11pm (ask us for an Angelfish cocktail voucher when you book!). The Sip Sip pool bar is an excellent daytime spot, and has a large sunset-facing beach area. We also enjoyed a brilliant blind wine tasting challenge in the Altitude wine cellar, expertly guided by sommelier Akul.

Facilities are extensive, with a dedicated surf team complementing the usual water sports, an open-air cinema, The Den kids club, Library, boutique, ice cream parlour, chocolatier and clinic. The excellent gym and yoga deck offer glorious views while you work off the calories. You can even join the staff on the back-of-house astro football pitch if that’s your thing. Transport around the island is by push bike, sporting your initials carved into a souvenir plaque that you can take with you when you leave. As you would expect with Six Senses, there’s a great spa with a wide variety of wellness treatments, a lovely reception and fabulous ‘nest’ outdoor treatment rooms overlooking the lagoon.

The Earth Lab showcases a number of sustainability projects, and we highly recommend a back of house tour, that your GEM (Guest Experience Manager) can arrange for you. The jewel in the crown, however, is The Shell, a purpose built facility that houses the pre-eminent marine biology centre in the Maldives and includes absorbing educational and interactive experiences for all ages. It also conducts critical marine conservation research and work and is a testament to Six Senses' commitment to preserving the local environment.

Scuba divers love Laamu, since the lack of resorts mean that you almost always have the dive spots to yourself. The snorkelling experience was a very pleasant surprise, since we’ve been a bit dismissive of Laamu’s reef in the past. Colourful corals have recovered really well and are home to bountiful marine life. Plenty of sharks, rays and turtles to spot and variety is on offer by swimming to nearby thilas or in the sea grass fields where triggers, turtles and rays feed. We even had a lagoon coral garden outside our villa (#44) teeming with fish, like our own private aquarium.

Six Senses Laamu has a deep ethos of care for its team, its local community and its natural environment, as much as for its paying guests. It’s a special resort, an island with so much to offer that you just don’t want to leave, but when you do you’ll feel a little more educated as well as serene and refreshed.